What Is Reincarnated Cashmere?
I’ve been calling my eco-conscious cashmere “reincarnated” for more than twenty years.
Today we commonly use words like upcycled, recycled, vintage, sustainable, and one-of-a-kind to describe clothing made from existing materials. But when I began working with reclaimed cashmere in the early 2000s, those terms weren’t part of the everyday fashion vocabulary.
I remember trying to explain the idea to a boutique buyer who simply couldn’t wrap her head around what I meant by a recycled sweater.
So I came up with another word.
Reincarnated.
It described exactly what I was doing: taking something that had reached the end of one life and giving it another.
Cashmere is a beautiful, luxurious and wonderfully warm fiber. But even an expensive cashmere sweater can end up unwanted because of a stain, a change in fit, or very often—holes created by cashmere-loving moths.
I began using appliqué as a way to work with those imperfections rather than discard the sweater. I repaired holes, covered damaged areas, combined colors and textures, and began cutting and sewing the sweaters into entirely new shapes.
My first reincarnated cashmere designs were sleeveless sweaters with the original sleeves transformed into long fitted “arm sox.”
Very LA: stay warm while still showing a little skin.
That first sweater and arm-sox combination eventually grew into an entire collection of sweaters, accessories, children's pieces, dog sweaters, home accessories and custom designs. They've been worn by celebrities, appeared on television, and been photographed and published around the world.
An Early Conversation About Eco Fashion
I was interviewed about my eco friendly designs back in 2006 by Lime TV- now featured on Gaia. This video explains my philosophy nicely. The gorgeous model wearing my clothing is Erin Salt.
I love having this little piece of history because I was already talking about many of the ideas that have since become part of the larger conversation around sustainable fashion.
After sorting, washing, repairing, designing and working with hundreds of cashmere sweaters over the years, I’ve also learned quite a bit about taking care of them.
Caring for Cashmere
Keep it clean before storing it.
Food, perspiration and other residue can make natural fibers more attractive to pests. Clean your cashmere before putting it away for an extended period.
Protect it during storage.
I store my own cashmere in securely closed containers, particularly during the warmer months when I'm not using it. Cashmere left undisturbed on a closet shelf or in a drawer can be vulnerable to moth damage.
Cedar and aromatic herbs can be useful additions.
Lavender, rosemary and cedar have traditionally been used around stored clothing. I love the natural fragrance, too. They aren't a substitute for keeping garments clean and protected, but they can be part of your storage routine. To be safe, pop herbs like lavender in the freezer overnight to destroy any potential insect eggs.
Skip the mothballs.
I've never liked using conventional mothballs around my clothing. I prefer keeping cashmere clean, protected and properly stored.
Treat appliquéd pieces gently.
My reincarnated cashmere is different from an ordinary sweater because of the appliqué, embellishment and construction. Dry cleaning is my preferred option. Some pieces can also be gently hand washed and dried flat, or hang to dry. However appliqué edges may change slightly with washing.
I don't recommend tossing an embellished reincarnated cashmere piece into the washing machine or dryer. The agitation can distort the appliqué, and heat and agitation can dramatically change cashmere.
Remove pills gently.
Pilling is normal, particularly where surfaces rub together, such as the underarms and sides. Whatever tool you use, work gently. Aggressive depilling can weaken the knit or even create holes—the exact opposite of what we're trying to accomplish.
When a Hole Becomes an Opportunity
And what if the moths get there first?
A hole doesn't necessarily mean a cashmere sweater is finished.
In fact, imperfections were one of the reasons I began making reincarnated cashmere in the first place.
A sweater can be repaired, embellished, reshaped, combined with other materials, or transformed into something completely different.
That's also the idea behind my Sweater Savior Project.
If you have cashmere sitting in your closet because it's damaged, doesn't fit, or simply isn't being worn anymore, I may be able to give it another life.
Learn more about the Sweater Savior Project →
